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Uji, Kyoto, Japan / Masakazu Miyakado
(June, 2013)
What a strange, demennted feeling it gives me when I realize I have spent whole days before this inkstone, with nothing better to do, jotting down at random whatever nonsensical thoughts have entered my head.
"Turezure-gusa", by Kenkou Yoshida, translation Donald Keene
1. Introduction
3. Company Life
4. Mountain
Cottage by Seniors
6. Discussion, Reconsideration, Argument----
9. Interchange
with Village People
10. Meet with Mr. Minoru Muramoto
13. Cornerstone, Ground Breaking Ceremony
15. Draw
Plan
17. Name
of "KYUZAN"
18. Framework Set Up to Completion
19. Ceremony to Celebrate the Completion
1. Introduction
In 1984, we built a small mountain cottage with friends at deep mountain
of Buna, Hikone city, Shiga Prefecture, Japan. We named it "KYUZAN".
We had experienced many things through "KYUZAN" building. There
were many difficulties, however I have already forgotten almost of them
except pleasant memories. At my room, an old photo of "KYUZAN"
is displayed which was taken in the next year of completion. Here, I write
my memories of 50, 40, 30, 20, ---- years ago. Recently, it is becoming
unclear to recall some memories. While we were building our cottage, I
had many documents and photos, however they went somewhere all too soon.
This is not an exact official report of construction, but a personal and
carefree memo of "KYUZAN", a mountain cottage building.
"KYUZAN" (January, 1985) (photo: by Hiro Noguchi)
During junior-high and high school student days, my life had no relation
with mountains. Sometimes, I visited to hills near Kyoto, such as Higashiyama
hills which are located around big temples and Arashiyama area.
I had one bitter memory. When I was at the 3rd grade of junior-high school,
there was an annual school trip to climb Mt. Fuji (12,388 ft). We went
to the halfway point by bus, and from the bus terminal we started to climb
on foot like a line of ants. I was confident with my stamina, however unexpectedly,
at the eighth stage I could not move because of heavy chills and head-ache.
I suffered from altitude sickness.
Strangely enough, chills and head-ache got well immediately, when I went
down only 300 ft. Then, I tried again to return to the eighth stage, however
I had same sick again. As a result, I could not reach to the summit of
Mt. Fuji. During my junior-high and high school age, I was a good player
of baseball team however I dropped out high-mountain climbing.
During my college days, I belonged to Wandervögel club and walked fields
and mountains quite a lot. In those days, there were several harsh training
at some Wandervögel clubs of other universities and unfortunately, few
students were killed. These violence were blamed. My family, especially
my mother was very worried about to join the club. However, I was not a
good son and kept club activities while I was in college. Our daily activities
were walking around neighboring mountains (mainly, Kyoto Kitayama) to become
familiar to natural hills and mountains. Kyoto Kitayama are hills and mountains
ranging about 1,000 ft high from Kyoto city to Wakasa Bay, at the Japan
Sea.
We lost mountain path quite often (because, we preferred to walk unknown
path ---- ). We trained ourselves to understand present position promptly
and exactly while we lost our way,. This was a kind of lost and found game
for physical and psychological training. Our club owned a small mountain
cottage at the north slope of Mt. Hohrai, the Hira mountain range which
locates at the west of Shiga prefecture. We enjoyed four seasons at these
mountains. Gradually, we lost interest to walk common mountain trail, and
we sometimes enjoyed to climb through mountain streams. I spent many weekends
at the mountains around Kyoto.
Soon, I forgot my bitter experience at Mt. Fuji, and went to high mountains
in Japan, too. Walking along the whole Japan South Alps by alone, the Yatsugatake
mountain range in snow season and a long stay at Hodaka and Kasumisawa
mountains---- these were my proud experience and I was at my best physical
strength. I enjoyed mountains very much. Later, I went to the top of Mt.
Fuji over 5 times to support my father's climb, etc.
However, sometimes we had bitter experiences at mountains. We walked all
day long in the rain with wet clothes. In another time, after tramping
through heavy snow, we pitched tent on the snow. When we sleep, we had
to hold our mountain boots covered with a vinyl bag in sleeping bag to
prevent freezing at night. In such a case, we became quiet, and fall into
inconsistent self-hate.
"By what mean, I am here now?" After arriving to the mountain
cottage of Mt. Hohrai, I was relieved while looking snow falling or listening
rain dropping with drying wet clothes and boots by wooden stove. I could
have a quiet restful time that I would not get cold or wet, again. I understood
deeply the value of the mountain cottage. This is the beginning of my mountain
cottage. It was a simple mountain cottage, but I was saved many times by
this home cottage.
During my collage days, I experienced many things at mountains with friends.
From these experiences, I feel a strong attachment to Kyoto Kitayama mountains
and the Mt. Hira mountain range as my favorites. Even now, I am immersed
in restful feeling from those mountains where I was grown-up.
3. Company Life
I started my company life at 25 years old. Fortunately, I
began my company life not as a typical white-color business man in high-rise
building at mega-city. I need not commute with jam-packed train. I was a
research chemist in a research institute located at rural suburbs. We commuted
with casual wear and at the institute I wore grey color clothes which were same
with worker's uniform at manufacturing plant. These work clothes were
comfortable, once I got used to. During guidance period, we learned so called
common sense as company employee such as human relations in adult society,
especially pecking order and labor-management relations. I tried to adapt
myself to company life and kept in mind for research efficiency and human
relations. I wanted to be a well controlled employee.
Originally, I liked sports very much. I played soccer and soft ball game during noon intermission and after work. But, "mountaineering activity" did not come to my mind. It was difficult to think mountaineering activity in company because of difficulty to get free time for several days. There were several club activities in the research institute, however in my memory, there was no mountain activity.
Also, I could not find person who liked mountains. During my college days,
we had infinite time and we could keep soft and relaxed human relations
with club members. However, in a company, we share firm goal and there
are social rule between company people. "Is it pleasant to go mountain
with company people?" "Can I share some pleasure with them?"
I was still in doubt to have mountain activities in company.
4. Mountain Cottage by
Seniors
Soon, I got used to company life and I could understand each senior's movement,
thinking, favorites and personality and so on. These seniors were some
10 years older than I, and they had already established their specialized
field as middle-management researchers. Among them, there was a senior
person who came from Sapporo, Hokkaido. He was a person of few words and
liked music and country-skiing. I became close to him, soon. I had complete
mountain skiing set since my college days. I could go out skiing anytime
when I heard snowing at mountains.
It was my 3rd year after I join to the company. I talked with him about
mountain ski climbing and agreed to go snowing mountain at the coming week-end.
The destination was Mt. Ryohzen (height: 1,084 meter, 3,556 ft) which locates
at northernmost of the Suzuka range mountains between Shiga, Gifu and Mie
prefectures. I was not familiar to these mountains and it was my first
climb to Mt. Ryohzen, so far. Later, I visited this area frequently because
we had our "KYUZAN" at that area. However, it was a result of
overlap of many chances and connections with our neighboring people. I
am very excited to write about details of "KYUZAN", from now
on.
On Saturday, we took local JR-train from Osaka to Hikone, and got on taxi
to the possible end of Seri-kawa River. From that point, we started to
walk to Asefuki-toge Pass with snow boots and ski walk at good pitch. Then,
we climbed up further along mountain ridge. As it was almost getting sunset,
we went down to a small valley to avoid wind and additional snowfall. We
set up Zelt on snow ground where there was no worry of avalanche. While
I was preparing simple dinner of stir-fry vegetables, he gave me a home-made
wine in a plastic bottle.
"Let's warm up!" I am and I was not a good alcohol drinker, however at that time I was rather thirsty, so drunk it, "Gulp, gulp----" and then returned to cooking. But, suddenly the drink went to my head. I gave up cooking and endured overnight pains in my sleeping bag without eating anything. He was healthy enough with good sleep and high snoring. I sometimes pushed him through sleeping bag, but he did not recognize my slight resistance.
Next morning, my head-ache went away. It was a very fine day. After taking
light meal, we started ski climbing, again. Although, I was almost 30 years
old, still I had enough physical strength. I led him to the summit of Mt.
Ryohzen with continuous wade through deep snow to open up a trail. At the
summit, we had a comfortable time after a long absence. There were no other
climbers on the summit. The mountain map of the summit of Mt. Ryohzen tells
us that there are three peaks covered with bamboo grasses and its landform
is rather complicated. I had an instinctive fear.
When it is clear, here is indeed a comfortable place, even it has heavy
snow at the top. However, once fog and wind cover us, we lose visibility
and our way to go, suddenly. This is rather risky mountain even though
it has only a 1,000 meter height (ca. 3,500 ft). To my memory, several
persons were lost in this mountain, since then. We stayed at the top for
a while and went back to the Asefuki-toge Pass, then took the opposite
way from the first half and returned home through Samegai.
Later, he gave many valuable advices during "KYUZAN" building,
also he talked several times about my sick drank of wine at Mt. Ryohzen.
After retirement, he re-started violin practice which he played during
early childhood age. To my surprise, while taking violin lessons, he fell
down by heart-attack holding his violin at hand. And he passed away, right
there. I was thunderstruck at the news of his sudden death. He was a member
of an amateur ensemble orchestra in Osaka as a violinist, and I went to
their regular concert several times. I remember Vivaldi's "The Four
Seasons" and their hearty performance of Pergolesi's "Stabat
Mater (the Holy Mother in tears)", remained in memory for many years.
A comment: Incidentally, during he was practicing "Stabat Mater", he told "I visited several record shops to buy the music, however I could not find it. From music score, it is difficult to construct total image of the music." Fortunately, I had the music CD played by C. Abbado with the member of London Symphony Orchestra in 1983. I copied and sent it to him for reference. Also I informed him the followings. There was a very famous movie "Amadeus" which was awarded eight Academy Prizes, in 1984.
A great number of well-known Mozart's music were played effectively in
the movie, however only one music from "Stabat Mater" by Pergolesi
appeared at the scene of funeral ceremony of Salieli's father. Salieli
was a self-conceit composer against Mozart, in the movie. The song words
"Quando corpus morietur----" mean "No matter the body goes
out after death----". At their concert day, I found in the booklet,
written "This music was played in "Amedeus"----." This
is one of my old dear memories.
By the way, the seniors of the research institute had a long examined plan
to construct a mountain cottage at a small village called Hohzuki in the
Suzuka range mountain. They saved funds almost completely, and the time
for construction came quite close. The name of their mountain cottage was
"AMADEUS"! The number of the seniors was eight. All of them are
middle-management core at the head office, research institute and manufacturing
works. At that time, the seniors were in their busiest time in life and
conducting many important practical business affairs, so far.
I could not believe their mountain cottage plan, readily. However, after watching them, soon I understood that there was no leader who controls everything like an organization at construction site. I knew their organization put the right man in the right place like stone walls of castle which combined large, middle and small stones with good skill. This was really a well balanced formation. Of course, this was completely a private activity and they drew a clear line between their company life and private life.
They started from the foundation, setting up the
framework, exterior, verandah and water line plumbing, ---- and after taking
two years, it came to completion. I sometimes joined as volunteer and watched
almost of the constructing process of "AMADEUS", in detail.
I have heard several times from one of the seniors talked after at their
hard work saying, "Are there some who will take over this kind of
activity?" with sake drinking. This was heard like an encouragement
and/or extortion. Now, I understand he talked it earnestly. I was not far
away psychologically from this kind of activity, so I understood their
real intention very well. In addition, I heard their talks without any
drunkenness.
Company life was not always comfortable in compared with
student life, however I learned it is very important to express myself honestly
with sincere heart. However, there are subject that can be done only by one
person and subject which cannot be done by alone.
The ceremony to celebrate the completion of "AMADEUS" was taken
place during summer Bon festival in 1978. Amadeus members, their families,
people of Hohzuki village and carpenters ---- many people joined to celebrate
its completion. I was also invited to attend the party. Unbelievable work
was completed in front of my eye. As a result, large "human ring"
was formed through "AMADEUS" building.
5. Ourselves----
By the way, what can we do? I did not want to do a copied
activity to our seniors. First, I thought the following:
1) invite members to join the project,
2) this will become a long-term project,
3) gather project members from different ages and jobs,
4) start money saving, immediately,
5) distinguish from company activity, etc.
First of all, we asked several people who worked nearby
at our institute to join to this kind of project without any written proposals.
Among them, we thought to include several persons who could drive car for
future activity. Nine persons came to join the project.
We started installment savings, soon. We decided to
collect each contribution according to salary and bonus amount. Each one has
different job-ranking and assessment. We did not collect fixed fee from each of
them, but introduced commission system according to income rate. We applied
self calculation method for each one’s contribution (I do not remember well how much was the rate. (3 to
5 percent?)). Any way, we applied own initiative self-assessment method.
Accounting person on duty collected each contribution in silence. There was
report of reserved fund, annually.
But, occasionally our purpose sharing became unclear.
Sometimes, I myself fell into weak intention. "This is a kind of
guaranteed saving of investment. If we cannot start our project, I will buy
many records by the refunded money!" Anyway, we kept walking.
Several years have passed doing nothing special except money saving. Money
was accumulated smoothly, however our passion went slow. Each person had
his own expanding work and his home care duty was also increased, as well.
At the beginning, we all nine members were working in the research institute,
however during these 5 years, some of us moved to administration department
at head office, manufacturing factory, and so on.
This kind of change was same to the "AMADEUS" seniors. After
completion, "AMADEUS" seniors used their facility frequently
and enjoyed four seasons. I was invited several times, and I heard once
in a while, "Can you really start your project?" This kind of
chat was too much for me, sometimes.
6. Discussion,
Reconsideration, Argument----
By the way, here came time to start action. But, we had
no idea what we should do at first. There was no such a text book or an
instruction manual to teach how to do. There were ideas of mountain cottage,
sea cottage, buy a camper ---- however we did not have any mutual
understanding. We continued chatting, whether we construct something all by our
hand with sweat or order everything to someone else who makes it? At mountain
or at sea shore? In mountain opinion, there were snow group and no snow group.
Discussion dispersed and not focused, at all.
However, one of our idea---"sea-house"
disappeared, soon. There was no person who supports ocean activity such as
yachting and fishing. Generally, the land price of sea shore was expensive in
compared with that of mountain area. The best season for sea bathing is only
two months and there was no good idea how to use sea cottage at other season.
So, the idea of sea cottage dropped off.
When we open the map of Kinki district, there are two directions, to go
west or east from Osaka, our residence. To the west direction, we thought
mountains at border of Hyogo and Okayama prefecture along the Chugoku expressway.
To the east, there are mountains at Kotoh (east of Lake Biwa and the Suzuka
mountain range) and Kosei (west of the Lake and the Hira mountain range)
and Mt. Ibuki area (northeast of the Lake), along the Meishin expressway.
In addition, there are another candidate for mountain cottage, such as
Hyohnosen, Kyoto Kitayama mountains, Tango peninsula, Ohmine, Ohdaigahara,
and Kisyu district and so on, however these candidates were hesitated to
consider from road accessibility. Personally, I have strong interest to
the mountains of Shinsyu and Hida, however both were difficult enough to
our target when we thought about construction and use of it after that.
It was critical to find the candidate place at least less than two hours
driving distance. With referring the activities of "AMADEUS"
seniors, we came to the focused recognition as described.
It was 33 or 34 years old when I started discovery activities of mountain
cottage candidate. First, we went to the west, opposite direction to "AMADEUS"
seniors, in search for our place which is located near prefecture border
of Hyogo and Okayama. Mainly, we visited to the north direction from Sayoh
or Yamazaki interchange of the Chugoku expressway. First, we tried to look
for area growing miscellaneous tree forest with broad-leaved evergreen
trees and no Japanese cedar or Japanese cypress trees. Each visitor sent
their discovery trip reports and we shared them all. Soon, we could have
several candidate places.
Next step. We found several candidates, however we had no
idea what to do as the next:
Who
owns that place, common property of village or private land?
Who
controls or manages the forest?
Who
is the contact person to purchase the land?
What
kind of process is necessary to start?
I do not remember the name of village, but any way we
visited a forestry section of village office. We explained our visit purpose
and asked about the possibility to buy some small land in mountain area. The
person in charge at a village office looked totally at a loss what to answer to
these non-reliable strangers. We visited him suddenly without any appointment.
He did not understand our activity, at all. Later, we knew that forests in the
mountains were one of the main possessions for village and village office had
no intension buying or selling forest land to outside people. Of course,
village person might have same fixed thinking about forest land. Because of
these reason, we could not go further step, at all.
We started to wrong direction. We were simply a nuisance from them. Buying
or selling land is a common act in urban, however we learned that it does
not meet to mountain village. It took one year to notice our nuisance action.
Anyway, it would be useless to visit mountains in searching candidate spot
only by driving mountain road to anyplace in Japan. We must re-consider
approaching method from the beginning. We were forced to return to "start"
like in a sugoroku play.
In the beginning, we started with nine members who worked in the research
institute. However, some of our member moved to other job assignment as
time went by. The members remained at the institute were in charge of reviewing
past activities, drafting next proposal and so on. We had information exchange
by face to face to keep good understanding.
Mainly, we met at after work or lunch time break not to attract someone’s attention. If we could use e-mail, we
could share every action more smoothly and efficiently. We were well aware that
we could never allow using such convenient company's facilities. To our
fortunate, we were struggling at this beginning stage just 15 years before such
efficient instrument introduced to our company.
Well, we might think next action.
Firstly, we thought we should continue to visit our
favorite place again, persistently. Then, we should try to become friendly to
some people at village office. And then, we wanted to be able to contact to
mountain owner. We thought establishing good human relationship was the most
important issue. We had many experiences to contact with business people, but
people at mountain were very different at their thinking and value senses. We
knew now, it was critical situation to keep good relation with mountain people,
and we had difficulties how we got close with them. We tried some facial
contact to village office person but all our trials were in vain.
While we were discussing about basic strategy, we heard a good news. I
did not remember clearly who brought this news to us. It might be from
some of our "AMADEUS" seniors. There was an active professor
of human geography at the prefectural university of Shiga. His major field
was problems of decrease in population and he knew well small mountain
villages in Shiga prefecture and neighboring.
He was leading several projects to promote works which met to each village.
In addition, we knew his son very well. He was working at department of
international trading of our company and stationed at London office for
several years. When I went London, he took care of me. However, of course,
I never thought that we would be helped by his father in future.
In our member, there was a graduate of the university, and he said "I
certainly know him". This was really informative. We thought to start
our investigation work with advice of the professor. However, we had some
embarrassing and second work feeling because the cottage would locate in
Shiga prefecture, same to senior's "AMADEUS". However, we had
no complaint about this situation. First of all, we decided that we should
visit the professor and explain our purpose and present situation (distress),
and ask him valuable advice and introduction. We contacted to the professor
at our earliest convenience.
I did not remember whether our first contact to him was done by letter
or phone. Soon later, we visited his residence at an old city area in Hikone.
The professor appeared in Japanese clothing. He was a man of tall and strong
built. He and his son looked alike in built. We explained details of our
group organization, past activities, future view and what kind of cottage
we want to build and so on, although we did not share common image of mountain
cottage, yet. All we could do was to explain enthusiastically.
He already knew about our brief unsuccessful story and his first comment
was "It will be difficult to continue Okayama and Hyogo approach for
mountain cottage." He also explained his experiences about problems
of decrease in population of mountain villages at the Suzuka mountain range
at Kotoh, the Hira mountain range at Kosei and Yogo lake area at Kohoku.
Each village had their own different difficult problems.
He agreed to take us to some small villages which he had
contacted in the past. We arranged two cars and visited to mountains and he
seated next to the driver of the heading car. It was a refreshing sunny day
with young green leaves.
We went to the west side of Mt. Ryohzen, locates at northernmost of the
Suzuka mountain range where I had a bad wine experience. This area was
about 13 miles north from "AMADEUS". There were paths through
forest in such a deep mountain and we met several woodcutters cutting branches.
The planted Japanese cedar and Japanese cypress in forest were maintained
well. He already knew some of woodcutters, and talked friendly about present
situation of the forest. He introduced these woodcutters to us. However,
as you imagine, there was distance between mountain people and us.
We drove car along mountain paths slowly and at some
place we got off and walked around to see nice site for cottage. Because of
presence of the professor, we had several light conversation with mountain
people, although we hoped more close relationships.
This area had a distance of only 2 - 3 miles as the crow flies from the
center of Hikone city, however here is deep enough obstructed by several
mountains. And, this area has already forgotten from town people ---- this
was our first impression of the site. At the topographical map on a scale
of 1 : 50,000, there were two adjacent villages (ruined), Buna and Myohko
and we could see ruins of a temple, a shrine and a school.
At here, there were few flat area for cultivation, however to our mystery,
certainly there lived more than 100 people in this mountain area, in the
past. There were about 30 houses at Buna village and they had their life
at this place. However, it had already passed few years since the last
person went down to Hikone town. They came back to their old mountainous
houses for resting or taking a nap when there was no snow around this area.
We visited this site while Buna village was at such a situation.
Almost all of large thatched houses had lost their roofs and floors, and became deserted house, already. Some places had left with only piled stone wall. There was a small stream along the village and residents used water from the stream for daily use. At the lowest spot of the village, there was a well. This well had been said that there was no dried-up period in its history even at the hottest summer season.
The well was made of wooden tub of about three feet width with open bottom.
Its wooden part had already decayed. However, clear water was welling out
continuously from the bottom. Village people named this well as "Well
by Kobo-san" and admired it very much. A small shrine was enshrined
near the well. This water goes to Seri-river and then flow into Lake Biwa.
THE KINKI REGION
There was another village called Myohko along with southern branch stream
of Buna. People of Myohko left the village earlier than Buna people and
the village was damaged more heavily and turned to ruins, already. The
vacant elementary school looked ghost house, and we could not come in because
of sudden possible collapse. There stood a decayed totem pole at the entrance
of Myohko village. Once at this village, school children were used to study
here. This totem pole was a proof of their activities.
Although, the people of Buna and Myohko villages went down to town already,
they still keep tight community. In every spring and autumn, they do mountain
road construction from the entrance of Hikone to Buna village at voluntary
bases. Also, in spring and autumn, they hold shrine festival and Buddhist
service was also taken place at certain occasion.
There are plenty fresh greens at this environment. This
place is close to town, however once we walked in the forest here was a world
of forest-bath. In winter time, we have good snow. We decided to continue in
and out this mountain for further investigation. Firstly, we decided to join
road constructions and village festivals as possible as we could and tried to
shorten distance between village people and us. Of course, our final goal was a
construction of mountain cottage around this area. To search good site, we
needed to collect many information from the mountain people. We wanted to keep
calm and steady investigation. With the introduction and guidance of the
professor, we could start our first step. From now on, we must make up our mind
to do everything with our self-responsibility.
9. Interchange with
Village People
We got information that there would be a regular annual road construction, shortly. It was autumn, Sunday. Meeting place was
at junction of three roads at Buna village entrance. This was a joint event
of the people who used to live in Buna and Myohko. Four of us also went
there to join the event. Totally, 40 to 50 people came to the place at
9 am. During road construction, they did several things. Firstly, buried
ruts with earth and sand which were made by car wheels.
Cut small twigs on the road and pull out grasses at wayside, etc. We used
shovel, scoop and big hatchet for large grass cutting. When large mud slide
occurred, they requested to the Public Works Bureau of Hikone city to make
shovel loader into action. For grass cutting, a power-driven grass mower
showed excellent mobility. Many of them came with farmer's working clothes,
boots, straw hat and hang towel at their lower back.
Before starting work, the head of ward who took turn
annually explained today's work area and then he assigned the working area to
each attendant. We brought our own lunches however a bean-jam bun and soft
drink were given to each participant. We were new faces who join to this work
and many people were very curious what kind of person we were. The head of ward
explained, "they come here to help our road work" and "they have
a plan to build mountain cottage at somewhere in this mountain area". We
had never been called by each person’s name but we were called "Sumitomo-san", a thankful
name!!
MAPS AROUND “KYUZAN”
The workings were divided into two, north and south group, and each group
went to the distant point then started to work until both group meet again.
About 10 am, there was a big break time and also, we took lunch at least
one hour. During resting time, one sat on the road and others took a nap
at load-carrying platform of small truck, and it never welcomed to work.
We behaved as same as they did, shared labor equally and kept harmony among
people. The most important thing was to come and join to this work without
late. During working, we tried to communicate with some talkative village
person. When we heard some information related to mountain cottage, we
tried to keep it in mind what and who said it. We needed trading business
sense, although we all were in technical background. About 3 pm, the road
construction finished when both north and south group met.
Since the first participation, we had tried to join
annual road construction as much as possible. Even after the completion of
mountain cottage, we have been continuing to come to annual events to keep good
communication with village people.
The wood made tub of "Well by Kobo-san" became pretty old and
especially upper part of tub was damaged. They had a plan to change the
wooden tub to a cylindrical tube made of concrete to keep good shape for
long period. Concrete tube was heavy. And the passage from the village
to the well was steep and narrow, so it was difficult to use constructing
machine at the well site. It was understood that considerable man-power
would be needed to do this work. The power of young men (?!) were expected
very much.
At the bottom of the well there was a calm stone. They believed that the
stone protect the well. This was really a sacred stone and during construction
of the well, the stone was carried out and after completion, the polished
stone returned to original position for future protection. In addition,
there was a strict belief that only an innocent woman (kimusume) allowed
to touch the stone, and we men could never allowed to touch anything in
the well.
This time, wife of the head of ward assigned as a (temporarily) innocent
woman and she went in the well and took out the stone, carefully. During
she was in the well, village men spoke out noisily. "When you return
to an innocent woman?" "I have been innocent from the birth day
and even now!" There was light chatting around the well.
Soon, old wood was removed and the hole was dug wider. Then, new concrete
tube was installed. We covered the surroundings with cement to fix the
tube, and the innocent woman returned the polished stone at the former
position and all was finished. Repair of the wall was an uncommon event
even to the village people, and fortunately we could join it. This experience
made distance between village people and us closer. We learned the wisdom
of Buna people who take over their tradition and transfer to the next generation,
as exactly as possible. They have strong mind to unite each other. They
are not simply a conservative village people.
During these periods, we kept on candidate area
searching. Soon, we knew that almost of the mountain was owned by individuals,
and ownership could be understood only by the person concerned.
Basically, we looked for the cottage place which meets
following condition:
1) an area covered with broadleaf trees
2) a nice view point of Mt. Ryohzen
3) a watering place nearby
4) a hidden place from the path but not so far, etc ----
We had been introduced some places by senior person of the village, however
one place was in the center of Japanese cedars and from another place we
could not see Mt. Ryohzen, at all. It was difficult to find out the place
that meets to our wish.
Soon, we came to know that it was impossible to find out the site which
meets to all of our four conditions. Then, we re-considered these conditions,
again. As for condition 1), even if we choose the place of Japanese cedar
or Japanese cypress trees, later we can cut these trees and then plant
our favorite broadleaf trees as much as we want. However, we could not
withdraw the condition 2). Then, we focused our exploration solely to find
out good view point of Mt. Ryohzen. Someday later, to our happiness, we
could find a best point where we could have good view of Mt. Ryohzen and
whole line of mountain ridge, as well. As we did not know who own this
area, we asked to a senior of village and heard that, "This is Minoru-kun's
area". About conditions 3) and 4), we understand, these were problems
how we endure inconveniences and we thought we would withdraw condition
3) and 4), too. His name is "Mr. Minoru Muramoto".
10. Meet with Mr. Minoru Muramoto
In Buna village, there were several houses with same family name and "Muramoto"
was one of the common family name. So, they called each other not with
last name but with their first name. We might met him sometime before at
road construction or at other events. However, we did not remember he was
who. For Mr. Muramoto, he might surprise that we focused his area as our
candidate and we were afraid that this might be a troublesome choice for
him. Anyway, since we came to know his name, we tried to make our first
contact to him to explain our plan. We met for the first time at a coffee
room in a large hotel near the Hikone castle.
First, we introduced ourselves and our past experiences, in detail. I will
omit to describe the details, here. Mr. Muramoto was a young man about
5 years younger than I and was working as a teacher at prefectural school
for handicapped students. He was living near Lake Biwa shore of south Hikone.
He was born in Buna and studied at elementary school at Buna district.
When he became junior-high school age, he went to school at the foot of
the mountain on foot except for winter snow season.
During winter, he stayed in school dormitory. I felt his strong attachment
to old village Buna from his every word and, fortunately he showed interest
to our activity. When we met him, many years had already passed since they
left Buna, however his father was still at good condition, and he took
his father to their old house at Buna during summer time. His birth house
was located at the lowest part of the village, where was the most nearest
place to "Well by Kobo-san". When we visited Buna village, his
thatched roof house had already fallen into ruin. At opposite side of the
narrow path there was a storage shed. This shed could be used as a roof
over our head with some repair. We borrowed this shed during we were at
foundation construction.
It seemed that he was surprised at our interest to his land spot. That
spot was used as cultivated field of burdock and green leave vegetables.
When they went down to town, they planted Japanese cedar because they would
not leave that spot as a given-up field. A number of young Japanese cedar
less than 10 years old was planted at that field. We selected that area
from a good viewing of Mt. Ryohzen. However, for them viewing of Mt. Ryohzen
was not a special matter. I thought they were very busy for good cultivation.
We started negotiation about buying his spot for our cottage construction.
He explained that this spot was taken over from ancestor successively,
so he could not admit to sell the spot to other person at his time. He
also explained that if we were going to buy the spot and register it with
our leader's name, it would be necessary to get approval of whole village
people.
And he told to receive good understanding of whole people would be difficult.
From his side, he proposed how about concluding lease agreement to make
the story simpler. Basically, we were thinking that it would be necessary
to own our spot because we are going to keep our cottage for long period.
After several discussions, we admitted to choose long term lease agreement.
We made contract of lease agreement and signed it on August, 1983.
The spot was a sunny bright place about 1 mile north from Buna village.
The land area was gentle slope facing southeast and the distance from forest
path was 70 to 100 feet. There was no water and we needed to store rainwater
or go to nearest stream to carry water at every visiting. The rental fee
was not to be compared with that of town fee. We agreed to pay at every
5 years intervals and we rented about 1,000 tsubo area (about 3,300 square
meter = 0.8 acre).
There held an annual autumn festival at the shrine of Buna, and many familiar
faced village people came to the festival. We also attended the festival
with Mr. Muramoto. Before holding the festival, we explained our cottage
plan directed by the head of ward --- about building site, cottage structure,
how to use it and to hold a Shinto ceremony for purifying a building site
before construction, etc. Especially, we emphasized about fire use in detail,
because there was no water at that site.
Above all, village people were afraid of forest fire, at the worst. We
explained to use fire at our closest attention and also to install fire
extinguishers. There was no objection. After solemnly ceremony in front
of main shrine, a banquet was taken place, and we drank and sang, quite
a lot. It was a pleasant party. Finally, we came to this point.
With our work and assist of many people, next summer we could complete
building "KYUZAN" and as a result, "a nice human ring"
was formed. Now, we can share our feeling with village people. Later, we
have heard from senior village person. When we came in Buna, their distrust
voltage went higher and higher. At the village assembly there were many
opinions, "They say that they want to build a mountain cottage, but
they may be a member of "the Japan Red Army" (terrorist group
of the extreme left)".
For some time, they kept their strict wariness against us. It was not necessary to invite unknown troublemaker to their peaceful mountain. This might be a kind of "funny story" now, in any case at that time we were recognized such an uninvited visitor. Their reaction was quite reasonable and understandable to us, too.
Well, there came many thoughts in my mind. During coming
three months, we had to do many things before snowfall came to this area. We
would be able to visit this area until at the end of November. Usually, this
area closed from December to next March by heavy snows and turned to silent
place except some deer and rabbits running around on the snow to find their
food.
We started mountain cottage building. I thought we might finish foundation
work in the three month before snow came. From April of next year, we thought
the following schedule: after snow melt away, we carry up materials to
working site and finish topping-out ceremony at least in early May, during
the golden week holidays. After framework building, we go to roof construction,
outer wall, and interior finishing and so on. We want to perform ceremony
to celebrate the completion of cottage in August, during Bon festivals.
We knew this was a very hurried and tight schedule. Probably, during May
to August, that is, from topping-out to completion of whole building, we
would have desperate concentrated efforts at every weekend. Of course,
we must work at eachone’s post
during week days. We wanted to finish whole progress of the work without any
accident.
We were very passionate at some point, however calm and awaken at another
point. We were confident to carry on physical labor, but we were not professional
for wood cuttings and house building technologies. We needed to construct
frame building as sturdity as possible, otherwise we could not maintain
rational durability and solidity for long period. We decided to ask foundation
construction and frame wood work to a local carpenter. Of course, we would
willings to support labor work. Fortunately, I knew a carpenter in Hikone
city. His home town was Hohzuki, and he had been a technical consultant
when our seniors built "AMADEUS" cottage. His name is "Mr.
Toshio Miyata".
We invited master carpenter Mr. Miyata ("the Boss") to our spot
and explained our rough plan of mountain cottage. Basically, he is a person
who used to live in mountain village for long time. He understood our brief
idea, soon. He pointed out how to make foundation structure (with iron
reinforced rod + concrete), because it was a slope area and had about 70
- 100 feet distance from the forest path.
Basically, at this site, it was very difficult to use large quantity of
cement, sand and water, like a construction in town. The conclusion was
that we might use freshly mixed concrete. In addition, it was needed to
make the slope ground as flat as possible. But, we calculated that we would
need over ten tons of freshly mixed concrete when we made foundation in
all four directions at this slope area. This was out of question from the
view point of financially and man power to carry fresh concrete in a limited
short time. It would be ridiculous to finish our plan only by building
firm foundation!
We still had some time for drawing cottage plan, however we might decide
foundation structure as soon as possible. After several discussions with
heated words, we came to a conclusion to make foundation of independent
cylinders with iron reinforced rod and concrete, like Shoso-in in Nara,
a monumental long lived historical wooden building. "Carrying knowledge
into new fields (onko-chishin)", as the ancients used to say. For
strong basement, we planned to use a fairly amount of stones of 4 - 6 inch
and strike them well, then pour concrete to strengthen the bases.
Then, we stand independent cylinders on each basement, vertically at right
place. Five independent cylinders at the length line and four cylinders
at width line, and as a whole, twenty cylinders were needed. So, we needed
to dig twenty holes. As it was a slope area, we might set up each independent
cylinder at different height, and of course each cylinder head must keep
same top level surface. Its length was 3.5 ken (about 20 ft) and width
was 2.5 ken (15 ft), and floor space was 9 tsubo (about 100 square ft).
We decided the foundation work plan.
"Go! Forward!!" First, we cut down several young Japanese cedar
trees and dug the candidate spot for basement. As we only remember its
size, 3.5 ken X 2.5 ken in mind, we made a long and narrow ditch as our
first work. "The Boss" issued the first yellow card, immediately.
"You are energetic enough, but you are stupid!! We are going to build
independent cylinders. Holes here and there are useless. Bury back soils,
immediately!!" During building cottage, we got many yellow cards from
him. If there was a rule to leave working site with two yellow cards, we
would never finish construction.
Each construction procedure was our first experience, however each procedure
was reasonable and understandable, such as decision of each basement point,
striking method of soil with Tako (heavy block of wood with four grips,
like an octopus with only four legs), evaluating method of surface level
at slope and determination of equal top level surface of each independent
cylinder head, and so on.
For independent cylinder, it were necessary to support cylinder vertically
and in the cylinder we build frame with iron rod inside then pour freshly
mixed concrete from the top. As for cylinder material, at first, we thought
drain pipes of 10 - 12 inch diameter of vinyl chloride. However, it was
very difficult to cut such a hard material at working site. To this problem,
one of our member picked up a paper made cavity tube (8 inch diameter tube)
at a place of disposals in our research institute when he passed by.
This was a good idea for our work and bought paper tube with fitted size
at material shop in Hikone. As this was a paper material, this could be
peel off after fresh concrete became solid, although these paper tubes
were such a durable material but they still stand at good condition after
30 years. We were saved by right material for easy cutting. "When
you are in real trouble, you will find a way out."
13. Cornerstone,
Ground Breaking Ceremony
We decided that the central pillar of this cottage come to the second basement
from the left. We buried flat cornerstone of 12 inch diameter at the basement
of central pillar. On the cornerstone, we wrote "the Boss" and
our nine member's signatures by themselves. On the cornerstone, sake was
poured to pray for our
safe work. We held a ground breaking ceremony with Shinto-style before starting earnest construction.
At the cottage area, we stand up bamboo trees at the four corner and bamboo
trees were bound to each other with sacred straw rope.
To the rope, four kamishide, zigzag-shaped paper streamers were hanged.
A Shinto priest came from shrine of Maibara and assembled simple alter.
We offered products from sea and mountain, such as sea tangles, dried cuttlefishes,
Japanese white radishes and then the priest purified this land area. To
the ceremony, Mr. Muramoto, "the Boss" Mr. Miyata and all of
nine members attended. To conduct a ground breaking ceremony was a promise
with village people and we prayed our safety during construction. This
was a good memorial event and we all nine members met on the site for the
first time, altogether.
Well, we started full-scale construction. Transportation of freshly mixed concrete was really extremely hard manpower work. Middle sized truck came to the mountain carrying freshly mixed concrete with rotating drum. The truck returned after dropping muddy concrete on a vinyl cloth at roadside of forest path. Of course, fresh concrete became solid as time passed by. This was a fight against time. "The Boss" instructed to finish all carrying work less than 4 or 5 hours with desperate efforts.
Fresh concrete was carried by a wheelbarrow. We covered the steep slope
with scaffold board for smooth rotation of wheel. One person kept handles
of wheelbarrow with his both hand and another two pull up wheelbarrow with
rope. This was a joint work by three men team. I mainly worked at the wheelbarrow
unit. During working, I became almost to drop concrete fluid to the ground
several times however I managed to finish without mistake. I had heavy
exhaustion at arms and lower back for several days. At roadside, one person
work for loading fresh concrete to the wheelbarrow and another person worked
as an assistant of "the Boss" to fill up concrete to the cylinder.
We could manage this hard work within time limit, but we could not take lunch while works were going. The freshly mixed concrete was used just as calculated. If we miss-calculated the amount of concrete, it would become a rather serious situation. 20 paper cylinders stood up at reserved place. It was a magnificent grand sight. We could finish all planned work until the snow season came. We could have break for a while.
15. Draw Plan
These were discussion of our member at our town in Kansai after finishing
foundation work. We needed draw plan of the mountain cottage for the framework
at next spring. What kind of structure could we put on a 3.5 ken x 2.5
ken rectangular area? When draw plan was completed, we might visit "the
Boss" to explain the plan and ask to prepare framework during winter
time. About mountain cottage, we discussed various ideas.
I wanted to have a relaxed time at verandah looking outside in a rainy
day. The subject of this cottage was nice view of Mt. Ryohzen, so we wanted
a large window at east direction. Even inside of the cottage was in a mess,
we wanted to have a clean sleeping space once we went up to the 2nd floor.
So, cottage needed the 2nd floor. I wanted an image of log cabin. All wood
material should be used Japanese cypress. It was difficult to include many
inconsistent opinions in a draw plan.
Among us, there was a senior person who was older about five years to our
average age. We called him "Mr. Dean". We asked "Mr. Dean"
to attend important event such as signing of agreement, explanation our
plan to mountain village person, and so on. When he drunk sake he used
to talk, "To say the truth, I wanted to be an architect! I studied
chemistry not as my most favorites." His work was exact and beautiful,
indeed. His many works of draw plans of manufacturing process looked so
neat like a draw plan of architecture. His works were accepted very well
not only at our research institute, but also manufacturing works and technical
administration department of head office.
We entrusted drawing the plan to our "Mr.
Dean". When he finished draw plan, we would tell comment, if any. Of
course, he knew our many varieties of opinions. Several weeks later, he showed
his primary plan of the cottage to us. This draw plan was very well written
like to build a new good residence. I had no additional opinion. The draw plan
were composed as follows: combination of large and small shed roofs, mezzanine
floor, corridor to mezzanine floor, small windows at second floor, verandah
should have a roof so that it does not get wet by rain and snow. We agreed and
accepted his master plan.
There was a discussion argued heatedly about the size of east window. One
opinion was to have a large window about 6 or 7 feet tall from the floor
like a window in modern apartment to keep enough sight of the line of Mt.
Ryohzen ridge while we were sprawling on the floor of cottage (I voted
to this opinion). Another opinion was the window of about 3 or 4 feet size,
because it was danger to have such a large glass window at mountain. They
told that the morning sunlight shining in the room was good enough.
Both opinion did not yield an inch and gradually became rather hard negotiation.
To have such a bickering in our group was not good. After all, we concluded
to entrust to "the Boss" to decide about the size of window,
as he knew very well about climate of this mountain area. After hearing
both opinions, "the Boss" told immediately. "I cannot recommend
large window at mountain cottage. It is a hard-and-fast rule that we should
have a small window at mountain cottage, at least." Well, then we
understood which direction we should go. However, I still told to "the
Boss", "Please, think about middle size window, please."
He replied, "Well, I'll think about it. That's all."
Next spring, from setting framework to completion, we “fathers” would be very busy at mountain play without weekend family services. This
was a healthy play, however total hours spent at mountain would be pretty
long. I thought that it would be essential to get each family's good understanding
and support, and I made a model of the mountain cottage (a model about
9 inches in length, breadth and height) according to the draw plan.
During winter time, this model was circulated to each family. I was confident that this model worked somehow to get good understanding what kind of cottage we “fathers” would go to build at the coming season. As a result, there was no one
who took absent during earnest working period. Now, this model is displayed
at alter of wooden wall in "KYUZAN" and welcomes our return to
the mountain, all the time.
On that winter, we had very heavy snow, and our cottage site became a snowbound
area. At the end of January, I decided to go to that mountain to the closest
point to Buna as close as we could go and wanted to make sure the state
of fundamental structure and surrounding environment at the heaviest snow
time. Visiting persons were two, including me. The travelling companion
had experience of skiing slope, however he did not experienced seal on-and-off
mountain skiing.
We thought this would be an important experience to expand his future activities.
Usually, we drive from town to Buna village in about a half hour, however
this time we avoided to use this familiar route because we were afraid
of possible avalanche at the driving path. We took up-stream route along
Seri-gawa river, namely through Kawachi, Ochiai and arrived to Buna village.
We estimated it would take about 3 - 4 hour walk on the snow, however the
snowfalls were beyond my imagination and also there was a new possible
avalanche, we took a higher route in the forest. It was really a very heavy
snow walk, indeed.
After night closed completely, we arrived at the entrance of Buna village,
where Mr. Muramoto's old house used to locate. We were thinking to come
in Mr. Muramoto's storage shed, however the entrance door was completely
covered with snow and could not use that door, at all. There was no way
to come-in from the window of second floor, although we know this was an
impolite act like a thief. Anyhow, we came in the shed and slept soon after
taking simple food without warming the room and ourselves enough. We were
tired, completely. As a first experience, he might have learned many things
at this mountain skiing in such a heavy snow season.
Next morning, we woke up early and left the shed at sun
rising time. We took walk and skiing by turns in the deep snow to the direction
of mountain cottage. Now, we could hardly find forest path. Many fallen trees
of Japanese cedar and Japanese cypress tree blocked our way. Finally, we
arrived at the site. First, we wanted to come to the place of independent
cylinders. However, we could not go up the slope of only several feet, and
tried again and again and could reach to the flat area. At the site, we could
not see each independent cylinder, at all. However, it looked all right. We
could not have enough time to take another resting there.
As to our returning, we took the path through forest to arrive to Toriimoto.
There were two mountain passes on the way. At each time, we must seal on-and-off
skiing, promptly. Smart and good mountaineer can do this kind of on-and-off
movement smoothly and quickly. There is a famous song "Snow Mountain
Praise (Yukiyama Sanka)", saying "Here comes pipe smoke time,
now take off seals from skis and enjoy downhill skiing to foot village
---- ".
We sing this song with the famous melody of "Oh My Dearing Clementine." We went down by skiing at faster speed than usual car driving. Smiles came out spontaneously. There were several fallen trees to stop our downhill skiing. It was really a pleasant feeling to leave our ski trails on virgin snow road where only some rabbit footprints remain in drops. When we arrived to the foot of mountain, the village people at the foot of mountain asked us in surprise, "Are you really come down from the mountain? How was the condition of up-hills?" I remember these words well, even now.
17. Name of "KYUZAN"
What name we should assign to our mountain cottage was a subject to be
determined over a long period. As this was our long thought cottage, we
did not want name to it easily. We decided its name as "KYUZAN"
with approval of all members, however I did not remember when its name
was approved ---- at before or after the foundation work, or at the topping-out
ceremony, or at the time of completion? Here is the story of decision making
of the name of our mountain cottage.
One day, one of our member introduced a poem by famous
old Chinese poet, Tao Yuanming（陶淵明）describing about "Returning to Live in the Country". And from
his bag, he took out a book of "The Selection of Masterpiece of Tao
Yuanming" which was issued by Iwanami publishing company (editor:
Tomoyoshi Ikkai). First, I was surprised from bottom of my heart at unbelievable
combination (sorry, for impolite comment!!) of Tao Yuanming and him.
What a well-educated man, he is! I quote here whole poem of "Returning
to Live in the Country". This was a poem describing a feeling with
deep regret when Tao Yuanming returned to his birth old nature where he
grew up after finishing unwilling long term governmental officer work.
Especially, the first phrase,
"Young, I was always free of common feeling. It was in my nature to
love the hills and mountains"
and, the last lines
"Too long a prisoner, captive in a cage. Now I can get back again
to Nature."
are the most
touching expressions. This is a poem written by a poet who lived at beginning
of the 5th century. To my surprise, Tao’s emotion was modernistic and vivid, even at present. We named our
cottage ”KYUZAN（邱山）” which means "the hills and mountains at home village" from the
poem. We decided it unanimously.
「帰園田居」 "Returning to Live in the Country" by Tao Yuanming
少無適俗韻 Young, I was always free of common feeling.
性本愛邱山 It was in my nature to love the hills and mountains.
誤落塵網中 Mindlessly
I was caught in the dust-filled trap.
一去三十年 Waking
up, thirty years had gone.
羈鳥戀旧林 The
caged bird wants the old trees and air.
池魚思故淵 Fish
in their pool miss the ancient stream.
開荒南野際 I
plough the earth at the edge of South Moor.
守拙帰田園 Keeping
life simple, return to my plot and garden.
方宅十餘畝 My
place is hardly more than a few fields.
草屋八九間 My
house has eight or nine small rooms.
楡柳蔭後簷 Elm-trees
and Willows shade the back.
桃李羅堂前 Plum-trees
and Peach-trees reach the door.
曖曖遠人村 Misted,
misted the distant village.
依依墟里煙 Drifting,
the soft swirls of smoke.
狗吠深巷中 Somewhere
a dog barks deep in the winding lanes.
鶏鳴桑樹頂 A
cockerel crows from the top of the mulberry tree.
戸庭無塵雑 No
heat and dust behind my closed doors.
虚室有余間 My
bare rooms are filled with space and silence.
久在樊籠裏 Too
long a prisoner, captive in a cage.
復得返自然 Now I can get back again to Nature.
（quoted from Home Page of “Personal Tao”）
18. Framework Set Up
to Completion
Re-start. Originally, our plan was to carry building materials in early
April however, we could not go to the cottage site because of heavy snow
during winter time. In addition, there were many ruins at forest paths
and it was needed to check whole road condition by shovel loader before
we get approval to come in the mountain. We were forced to wait until permission
came from Hikone. All the necessary wood materials were already carved
and kept at "the Boss's" warehouse.
After all, we waited until the beginning of May, Golden
Week. We got the green light and every material for cottage were carried by
several trucks, such as cut pillars, plywood, floor boards, scaffold boards,
roof materials and innumerable number of logs of Japanese cypress ----. All
materials were dropped off at roadside. We were overwhelmed by such large
amount of materials, however we carried them up from the roadside to the
working site on foot, a 80 feet distance. I do not remember, how and who carried
up such heavy materials, in good order. Anyway, we carried them up in silence
like a march of ants, from piece to piece, box to box and step by step.
After all, we performed the topping-out ceremony on May 5th, the last day of Golden Week straight holidays. On that day, several young carpenters came to support "the Boss" and they constructed wood frame tapping with their large mallet within 2 hours. Then, we hammered plywood to roof and walls to keep out rain and dew. Also, aluminum sash windows were installed. Temporary door was installed at the entrance, too. It was a rushed work, however finally we realized the real size of our new cottage.
We were surprised that the height of the second floor was higher than our
original image. This was happened because of misunderstanding between "the
Boss" and us. We could not change it, anymore. It was such a height,
if someone falls down from the 2nd floor, man would get bone broken, probably.
There was not good space between shed ceiling and 2nd floor, we could stand
up only at the highest ceiling part and to go to the back space we must
crawl on the floor. For sleeping, this narrow space was good.
Especially, kids would find great fun to this narrow space. As the 2nd
floor was high, we could have rather good space in the room. When the inner
wall installed completely, we would be able to enjoy the simple beauty
of wooden wall. We installed double leaf glass windows with 4 feet height.
From the window, we could see whole Mt. Ryohzen without any barrier. Thanks
to "the Boss" for his deep consideration!!
We bought a gasoline engine-driven dynamo for construction. We used it
mainly for wood cuttings by electric saw. This was a very useful machine.
We bought several large hammers to strike 5-sun (about 15 cm = 6 inch)
nails. We bought small tools such as saws, chisels, drills and so on for
hand workings but many other tools were brought from each house and donated.
During working, "the Boss" and young carpenters hang nail bag
made by clothes (I do not know the exact name of this bag) at their lower
back. It looked so neat, and we followed to hang personal nail bag at our
lower back, too.
We did work at every week-end, however we arranged our schedule with rotating
system that each member's contribution comes at every other week. After
work, the workers transfer to the workers of next week necessary materials
and work subject, etc. After the cottage formed its rough shape, we could
stay overnight at the site. As a natural result, we went to the mountain
at Friday night. We arranged to meet with fellow workers at the research
institute, or Toyonaka station of Hankyu Railway where was easy place to
see each other and sometimes at JR Hikone station.
After we got off expressway at the Hikone tollgate, we stopped at "Gyohza-no-Ohsho
(King of Gyohza)" and bought large amount of food stuffs for dinner
and night meal and went up to the mountain at night (Gyohza: crescent-shaped
pan-fried dumplings stuffed with minced pork and vegetable). At Friday
night, we went into sleep earlier than usual, because of hard jobs during
weekdays and pleasant works from the next morning. When the eastern sky
grew faintly light, we started our work with engine sound of electric saw
and lively hammering echo of 5-sun nails. This was our sound message to
mountains. “Good morning! We are here
and everything goes well!!"
We worked with three to five persons, in average. But
when working with three, we were difficult to keep good liveliness although we
worked hard. The hammering sounded now and then, and all our activities seemed
to be absorbed to large forest of the mountain. On the other hand, when we work
with five persons, we stimulated each other and very often we fell into
overwork. From our experience, working with four members were the most
appropriate for balanced work at this mountain cottage.
Our work was not managed strictly by work schedule, but
entrusted to each person who wants to work at his desired site. Working
schedule itself was planned to step forward, however it was described rather
roughly. This was a large scale hobby play, not a business work!!
Soon, each person had majored his favorite work. For example, we needed
fairly good power to strike in a 5-sun nail. In my case, I needed over
8 - 10 time strokes to finish it. Also, I miss-stroke the head of nail
and had to try to strike a new nail, several times. But, the strong-armed
expert could strike 5-sun nail by hitting only 3 or 4 times without bending
it. Gradually, we asked him to strike nails where difficult to work, "Do
it, please. I leave it to you, thank you."
The roof was covered with dark brown colorbestos (roofing
single) on waterproof sheets. It was not easy to stick colorbestos on the roof.
Firstly, we learned how to work and "the Boss" gave a strict order to
do this work with bare foot or with socks. Because roofing materials were
rather easy to break, we might treat them with closest attention. It was very
hot on the roof top. We must check colorbestos position from vertical,
horizontal and diagonal angle in each time to put on right position. At the
three ends of roof, namely top and both ends, tin plate cut-water were fitted
up and at the bottom side eaves trough was fixed and completed roofing work.
Roofing was a short and concentrated job, however it was hard work at the very hot
place and we cared for not to get faint with heat.
Outer walls with lengthwise divided logs of Japanese cypress were the most
important charm point of "KYUZAN". To fix logs, we needed many
labors and careful attention. First, we cut each logs to the fixed size.
Then, peel bark of wood carefully one by one with sickle not to hurt wood
surface skin. The log with no insect damage and no crack was used as materials
of outer wall. Strip the bark from log could not do mechanically and it
was really a time-consuming work.
Gradually, bark stripping became rate determining step of whole work. Then, hammering and engine sound disappeared and all were completely concentrated to bark stripping at each one's style. There were huge heap of tore bark at our surroundings. This work could be done even at night under candle light. Shortly after, there appeared a person who specialize barking work.
Flooring was one of the finest interior works among
cottage building. This work also started under introduction by "the
Boss". I missed a chance to join this work and occasionally watched how it
made progress from outside. Originally, this floor materials were prepared to
repair floor of a big temple, however because of some size difference, these
materials had been kept as inferior goods. So, we bought them at exceptionally
reasonable price. This material had elegant white color and soft touch which
might be useful to make our coming cottage life richer. Flooring process went
on smoothly.
Construction of mountain cottage became almost at the
end, and many people including women and children were expected to come to the
ceremony to celebrate the completion of our mountain cottage. We had a need to
make a toilet near the cottage, soon. We dug a big hole with a depth of twice
of our height at 60 feet north area of our cottage. This was a cesspool for
long time use. At next to the hole, we made a gabled roof structure using
remaining dark colorbestos and carried the structure by five or six persons on
the dug hole and completed simple toilet. I myself like open space than closed
small room, so I did not use the toilet at all.
Amendment of approach. From the forest path to the
cottage was about 80 feet and height difference was about 25 feet. At the
beginning, this approach was a narrow animal trail, however because of our
frequent use by carrying materials and walk of us, this approach went to ruin
very much. It was difficult to repair the approach during construction period
however we did not want to leave the approach at present ruined condition for
our comfortable future use. When our construction came to the end, we tried
following temporary repair. We made about 20 narrow step stairs with small
twigs to return to original condition. We expected that grasses will grow well
after one year and the approach will return almost to an original animal trail.
One of the most important things during construction was to eat good foods
and drinks. We decided a duty person for foods and drinks by lot after
we entered into the mountain. Of course, all of us wanted to stay at the
site for construction. However, the lot lost person had a duty to ask everyone
about their favorite foods and drinks, then he had to go down to grocery
store in town. He bought back foods and drinks for Saturday lunch and dinner
and Sunday breakfast, taking two hours for round trip.
There was another strict rule among us. Whatever the working state was,
we stop all work completely when Sunday noon came. After reviewing the
details for next group at the site, we returned to home, promptly. Everyone
needed to spend each one's Sunday dinner with his family, at least. We
seldom ate noodle or soba at parking lot of Kuromaru or Bodaiji on expressway
for Sunday lunch. In addition, one ice-monaka priced \100 became our indispensable
luxury foods to refresh from tiredness (monaka: a wafer cake filled with
red bean jam). There was no non-alcoholic-beer at the market.
We were confident the view from our cottage to Mt. Ryohzen, however our
surroundings were covered mostly by Japanese cedar and Japanese cypress
and we needed some change at our nearest garden view. All the grown trees
of artificial forest belong to each forest owner and we had no means to
do anything against these trees. We looked for young broadleaf trees at
neighboring miscellaneous trees. We planted some of them near the cottage
for the time being. They were really small young trees for the first few
years. After 30 years, at present, they have grown up as big trees and
cover roofs of our mountain cottage.
We learned that it would require thinking at least several decade time
intervals to create new desired environment by trees. In addition, 30 years
ago, many trees at artificial forest were rather small. However, now all
these trees have grown up as grand trees. We generation decline steadily
year by year, but the living force of trees are really growing steadily.
This is encouraging. Japanese cedar and Japanese cypress trees which were
planted at gentle hill before Mt. Ryohzen also grown quite well, and now
the good view of Mt. Ryohzen from our cottage are becoming questionable,
a little. This is a conclusion that living forces of trees are winner without
doubt.
19. Ceremony to Celebrate
the Completion
From the first plan to the completion, it took five years. We held ceremony
to celebrate the completion on August, 15th 1984. This was not a ceremony
of Shinto rites but a grand party to express our greatest thanks to many
peoples who relate "KYUZAN". Our "Mr. Dean" explained
to the attendants, "From today, we call this mountain cottage as "KYUZAN"".
The attendants to the party were about 40 people, the 9 planners and workers,
their families, the professor who introduced Buna, Mr. Minoru Muramoto,
"the Boss" Mr. Toshio Miyata, members of "AMADEUS",
Buna people and so on.
Many people came to here to celebrate our work. Here we were given a large
"Human Ring" from "KYUZAN". We nine member's are :
Hajime Hirai ("Mr. Dean"), Shigeyoshi Kitamura, Kiyoshi Kasamatsu,
Ichiro Kojima (Tsuda), Masakazu Miyakado, Hiroshi Noguchi, Nobuo Ohno,
Yukio Suzuki and Yoshitaka Ume (in alphabetical order).
We all nine members met on site since ground-breaking ceremony in autumn
last year. This was the second and the last chance we nine member met on
site. Anyway, we celebrated ourselves frankly to meet today at here, because
we had went through a number of dangerous work and mountain driving and
----. For kids who grown at towns, there were so many interesting and attractive
things at the inside and the outside of "KYUZAN". I still remember
well that they were running about forests, shouting and sweating heavily.
Many attractive activities would be taken place around "KYUZAN"
from now.
We consumed our funds smoothly and there left some land rent fee to Mr.
Muramoto and small amendment expense for future use. So far, at present,
this was a great successful work. We ate many barbecue cooking and sushi
from village people. We talked, cried out for joy, buzz-buzz, buzz-buzz----
we had a very noisy cheerful party time. I did not remember what I ate
and drunk. About 2 pm, the party was over and "KYUZAN" became
quieter, again. We loaded large quantity of garbage to our car and returned
home.
I was scheduled to visit Cornell University, Department of Chemistry, in
the U.S.A. for two years with my family at the end of August. We could
celebrate the completion of "KYUZAN" however I was going to miss
it for a while.
After the completion of "KYUZAN", we enjoyed the four seasons
of "KYUZAN". With family, relatives, company friends, friends
at collage days, business partner and friends, friends from overseas, we
adjusted each one's schedule and invited them to the mountain. There are
Seiryu falls, Samegai trout breeding farm and Kawachi Fuuketsu (a cave
from which a cold wind blows) and other attractive natural spot at our
surroundings. Basically, our environments were a mixed forest with copse
of broadleaf trees and artificial forest of Japanese cedar and Japanese
cypress.
However, when we watch closely, there were many bamboo trees and some cultivated
land for shiitake mushroom and forcing tomatoes for a promotion of depopulated
area. These farm products became favorite foods for monkeys and other wild
animals, soon. These farms were covered by fence to defend against these
animals attack. I remember that a mountain farmer talked masochistically,
"We come all the way to the mountains, and work hard for farm production
in a cage. What a comical person, we are!!" Now, all these trials
were given up and went to ruin, completely. Successful business at mountain
was a very tough work to deal with.
One time, during road construction, we have heard from village people that
there was a plan to develop this area as a new golf course with destroying
gentle hills by big capital. Here is quite a convenient place from Kyoto
taking only about one hour by car. Suddenly, I thought, "Heavens!
I must fight against giant capital like farmer fighter of Sanrizuka!!"
(Sanrizuka is a farmer's well known resistance movement against opening
the Tokyo International Airport (Narita)).
There were another worries for village people that village might be split
into a half, namely, a group to keep nature as plain as possible, and a
group for good job hunting ----. However, fortunately, this plan was stopped.
"Snow" was the reason of it. There are a lot of snowfalls at
this area from December to April, at least. Closing golf course for 5 months
was difficult to maintain profitable management. Noise around "KYUZAN"
went out soon, and everlasting silence returned here again.
1994 was a year of the 10th anniversary of "KYUZAN". We became
familiar with various natural activities around "KYUZAN". During
barbecue time and working at outdoors, we must always stand firm with our
legs to keep up straight because our field stood on a slope area. We wanted
a flat area in front of "KYUZAN" even it was only a small area.
We were slow to act anymore because we had already exhausted our power
by "KYUZAN" construction.
However, we decided to work again to build a flat verandah for the 10th
anniversary party. Once again, we asked "the Boss" about verandah
construction. He said, "Verandah is quite easy. If you want to build
verandah of "KYUZAN" size, one day and 4 or 5 workers will be
good enough." It was a very easy story than we thought, so we decided,
immediately. This time, the draw plan was in "the Boss's" head.
The place was east side of "KYUZAN". The negotiation went smoothly.
The weight of verandah was very light, compared with "KYUZAN",
so the formation of basement was prepared only by striking soil well with
Tako. The number of basement were 20, same number to that of "KYUZAN"
basement. First, we stroke soil, pebbles, stones and small size concrete-blocks
were placed and put up pillars for verandah on the blocks, directly. Then,
after assembling framework, the last step was to place footboards on it,
that's all. Before starting, we could see goal easily!! We finished the
soil and stone struck for verandah basement in one day. When all materials
were got ready, we received a call from "the Boss". Then, we
went to "KYUZAN" for verandah construction.
During working, when I stood on a beam, I slipped carelessly and fell on
the ground from 5 feet above with hitting the abdomen by beam. I was choked
a moment. I understood myself well what I did, however the hit abdomen
hurt heavily and could not do deep breathing, at all. I stretched myself
on a ground for a while, but I decided to return home driving a car by
myself for early inspection. And, I went to the hospital in Kyoto, directly.
Pain was still remained at my abdomen. I was afraid of some damage of organs, however after several inspections of X-ray analysis, CT scan and urinalysis, no damage was observed at my abdomen. However, I stayed one night at hospital for added precaution. Next day, I returned home. Later, one of my kidney had some disorder, however I believe this disorder does not relate to my fallen accident.
I hit right front part of abdomen that was just a place of liver. I had
been weak with alcohol drinks, however I was weak with alcohol since my
elementary school age, this also would not relate to the accident. To my
understanding, kidneys place more close to the back. While I was staying
at home quietly, my "KYUZAN" friends who completed verandah construction
came to see me on their way back to home. I appreciated their visit, indeed.
At the 10th anniversary party, we invited many guests and friends and celebrated
our happy 10 years without standing on a slope. Of course, I attended the
party however I already lost almost all of my memory about the party. When
snow season came, we thought to put verandah footboard underneath of "KYUZAN"
to prevent getting rot and wanted to keep the structure for long time,
however to my memory, we never did such an action, since then. As the punishment
of our laziness, after 20 years, at present, the verandah rotted away completely.
One of my most favorite "KYUZAN" visit was to go there by myself
alone. From my house in Kyoto to "KYUZAN" takes about 1.5 hours.
Especially, I liked to visit there on rainy free Saturday. Driving mountain
path with some small lunch, I arrived at "KYUZAN" without any
tiredness. At first, I opened the all doors and windows, then lay at full
length on floor or took a nap at the second floor.
The sound of gentle rain was something like a poetic world of Makura-no-sohshi
(The Pillow Book, a famous diary written by a woman writer, Sei-shohnagon
in the beginning of 11th century), and while listening the sound of pouring
heavy rain, I could have extremely good restful feeling which I could never
get during my mountain walk at collage days. I had no intension to do something,
in concentrate. I enjoyed single "KYUZAN" to have perfect relaxation
time, not for deep meditation.
One more, I have a special personal memory about musical activity at "KYUZAN".
Formerly, I assembled a clavichord kit taking whole one year. I knew about
clavichord kit when I was in the U.S.A. I bought the kit and imported keyboard
kit from manufacturer in Boston. I could not play musical instrument, however
I could have some music friends in Japan because of my experience of clavichord
assembling. One time, I met a young man. He was more than 20 years behind
me in the same University and working as a system engineer at a company
in Osaka.
He was a well experienced keyboard player and he joined an ensemble group
as cembalist in Tokyo. He seemed to be a person who had different sense
of values and life-style in comparison with young men at same generation.
He lived in Yoshida, Sakyo in Kyoto-city. One day, he knew my clavichord.
By visiting each house several times and by touching the instrument, he
had interest to the potential of this instrument.
He wanted to record gentle sound of this instrument and on the other hand,
I was also looking for a good performer for a long time to play this instrument.
We decided to visit "KYUZAN" in the near future. At that time,
digital stereo recorder was already on the market and he brought it. I
carried the instrument to "KYUZAN" with the closest attention.
It was an early summer. The sun set and it turned dark from dusk. First
of all, he tuned all strings correctly by using electronic tuning machine.
String tensions had been changed a little by carrying and by changing its
environment.
We closed all windows to fix the room temperature as much as possible.
This time, I asked and he agreed to play "Inventions and Sinfonias
for two voices and three voices (BWV 772-801)" by J. S. Bach. He told
he had trained himself with his electronic piano at home. We had three
candles light. As "KYUZAN" was an all-wood-made building, I heard
the quality of sound from the instrument very well and soft and warm. I
might be prejudiced, however I was waiting this memorable time.
While recording, I listened to quietly sitting on the chair and stayed carefully not to disturb his concentration. He played a piece of music repeatedly until he satisfied. He completed music one by one in a slow and steady pace. This music takes about 50 minutes for a play, however we finished whole recording late at night, 2 or 3 am. In the end, I asked him to play my favorite from "Harpsichord Suite No.5 in E (HWV430), the 4th movement, Air" by G. F. Händel (well known as "a theme and variations of Hammersmith").
The room became warmer by three candles and his devout play. Midnight cool
air at outside, the chirping of insects and breeze among trees were quite
comfortable for both of us. Later, I received an edited tape from him.
We could not compare his performance to that of professional player, however
this was one of my genuine memorial treasure. I sometimes took the tape
to recall my past good memory.
We have already reach to the age at the busiest time in our life and our
work place spread over many places in Japan and one of our members went
out to work at overseas for many years. It became difficult to see all
of them at "KYUZAN". We tried to meet each other at least once
a year, however only six to seven people could come and the meeting place
was a saloon at Umeda, Osaka. In a sense, this was a natural consequence
for Japanese business men of our age.
The 20th anniversary in 2004 was done with a very simple way. However,
we made "KYUZAN" T-shirts not to forget the anniversary. Its
illustration was written by one of our member and under the "KYUZAN"
illustration we put "KYUZAN 1984 - 2004". These T-shirts were
distributed to all our members and friends. To a small anniversary party,
Mr. Muramoto came. He brought very tasty "Trout sushi", sold
at Isoda direct sales store. This sushi were local product and not well-known
to the people outside Hikone. Since then, when I go to Hikone, I drop in
Isoda store to buy the sushi. Before visiting, I call the shop to confirm
the sushi in stock.
During this decade, there was an unhappy occurrence, sudden death of our
"Mr. Dean" Dr. Hajime Hirai. We all attended the funeral ceremony
and prayed his soul might rest in peace. I regret deeply, because I had
been expecting to have a real friendship with him when we could share more
time after retirement. He had such a sincere and fascinating personality.
Recently, in summer times, giant wasp made their nests quite frequently
at roof or under the eaves of "KYUZAN". This might be a result
of the good growth of forest trees or influence of global warming. Although,
we are strong corps having a number of powerful insecticides, it was difficult
to exterminate them all, so we could not go close to "KYUZAN".
In such a case, we were forced to give up "KYUZAN" for whole
one season. I regret, but "KYUZAN" stays in the middle of natural
ecosystem, so it would be better not to go against natural great stream.
We will have the 30th anniversary of "KYUZAN", in the coming
year. Main building is still all right, but verandah cannot be used anymore.
Moreover, the growth of Japanese cedar and Japanese cypress around us are
remarkable and our proud view of mountain ridge of Mt. Ryohzen are hidden
half by these trees. In addition, there are unusual habitats of Japanese
deer around Mt. Ryohzen and excellent green bamboo grasses are eaten up
completely by these animals.
Now, the line of Mt. Ryohzen ridge is showing very miserable conditions
with naked soil. Among our nine members, there is one who joined the ranks
of the dead. Other members are spending remaining life at their own home.
I know how each member is doing mainly by exchanging New Year's Card. I
want to celebrate the coming 30th anniversary quietly, by myself.
Since we met Mr. Minoru Muramoto thirty years ago, we have been heavily
indebted to him for his kindness. While, when he visits Buna, he comes
near "KYUZAN" and watches the status of building and its surroundings.
We wish to express our deepest thanks to him. Once, he and I had shared
a strange experience. His father and my father passed away at the same
day, on the last day of March, 1989 (the first year of Heisei). We informed
each other and exchanged condolatory telegram however we could not visit
each other's funeral ceremony. We want to ask him to keep watching and
use "KYUZAN" when needed. And we hope to keep good friendship
during our remaining life time.
At the end, I would pray to the soul of the late Mr. Yoshishige Satoh,
the late Mr. Yoshio Fujita and the late Dr. Katsuzo Kamoshita of "AMADEUS"
seniors may rest in peace. And, I would pray in my heart to the soul of
"Mr. Dean" of "KYUZAN", the late Dr. Hajime Hirai,
may rest in peace and I want to offer this casual essay to him. I discussed
and shared time with these four gentlemen. It was my great joy that we
had "played" together with them. Thank you.
(p.s. I was born in February, 1947. My happy retirement was June, 2011.)
Acknowledgement: I wish to express my deepest gratitude to Mr. Seiichi
Ozawa for his critical reading of this manuscript.
The End